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How to: Take care of your designer bags and purses

Time to shine:

10-15 minutes

Difficulty:

Beginners

Introduction:

Designer handbags are made from many different materials. Some are coated textiles, others are natural leathers, and some combine several materials in one design. Each of these materials needs its own approach. In this guide we explain the most important handbag materials and how to care for them with the right products. We will show as many examples as possible so you can recognise your own bag and understand exactly why a certain product is recommended. It is not possible to cover every designer handbag ever made, but the examples in this guide represent the most common situations. Every recommendation is based on our experience caring for premium designer leather goods.

Learn how to:

  • Identify the materials used in popular designer handbags, including coated canvas, natural Vachetta leather, and treated calfskin leather.
  • Understand the differences between these materials, so you know why each one needs a different type of care.
  • Recognise and maintain the coated monogram canvas on Louis Vuitton bags.
  • Care for the untreated Vachetta leather handles and trim, and how to prevent the most common issues such as staining and dryness.
  • Look after treated calfskin leather found on many handbags from Gucci, Hermès, and other luxury houses.
  • Choose the right type of care product based on material, without relying on guesswork.
Louis Vuitton

Caring for Louis Vuitton monogram canvas

Louis Vuitton’s iconic monogram canvas looks like leather, but it is not leather at all. It is a coated fabric with a printed pattern. This coated surface is durable and water resistant, but it still needs care to prevent dryness and small cracks in the coating over time.

Why the coated fabric lotion works best

Saphir Médaille d'Or Coated Fabric Lotion is made specifically for surfaces like the Louis Vuitton monogram canvas. It gently removes light dirt, refreshes the surface, and keeps the coated layer flexible. It will not disturb the printed pattern and it will not change the colour of the canvas. This makes it the safest and most effective choice for maintaining the monogram panels.

Luis Vuitton's monogram coated canvas

Louis Vuitton

Natural vachetta leather handles

Many Louis Vuitton bags include natural Vachetta leather handles, trim and piping. This is a high-quality, pale-looking, calfskin leather from Italy that is completely untreated and designed to develop a beautiful patina over time. Because it is untreated, it is highly absorbent and will pick up oils and dirt from your hands quite easily. Over time, this can lead to stains, uneven colouring and dryness. If the leather is left without proper care for long periods, it can eventually begin to crack.

There are water-based protectors and sprays on the market, but these products only create a temporary barrier. Which if that is what you are looking for we recommend Saphir Médaille d'Or Natural Protector spray. They do not nourish the leather or maintain its natural flexibility. Without nourishment, the leather can dry out beneath the protective layer, which increases the risk of brittleness and cracking. For this reason, we recommend using a product that protects and nourishes the leather at the same time.

You can leave the Vachetta leather entirely untouched if you prefer to allow a natural patina to develop. If you want protection and longer-term care, our gently formulated creams are the better choice. The lighter option is Saphir Médaille d'Or Nappa Cream, which offers subtle nourishment with minimal colour change. The richer option is Saphir Médaille d'Or Vegetable Tanned Leather Cream, which gives deeper care and slightly darkens the leather while keeping it well-nourished.

Natural untreated vachetta leather handles

Vachetta: Natural patina

Gucci, Hermes and other brands

Caring for treated calfskin leather handbags

Many designer houses use treated and finished calfskin leather for their handbags. These leathers already have a protective finish that allows them to handle richer care products. Examples include the Gucci Jackie 1961 and the Hermès Birkin.

Why leather lotion works best or finished/treated leather

Saphir Médaille d’Or Lotion is ideal for this type of material. It contains mink oil, which nourishes the leather deeply and restores softness. Treated leathers respond well to this level of nourishment and do not darken as dramatically as untreated Vachetta would. The lotion prevents dryness, keeps the surface supple, and enhances the natural look of the leather.

This lotion should not be used on untreated vegetable tanned leather because the mink oil will darken that material significantly.

Colour corrections

You can spot treat any scrapes or discolourations using a high-quality matching colour shoe cream such as Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier cream. Be sure to use as little cream as possible and to rub it in thoroughly to avoid colour bleed. Check our colour chart to find the best matching colour for your bag.

Black Gucci bag with treated black leather

Gucci, Hermes and other brands

Caring for lambskin AKA nappa leather

Many designer houses use nappa leather, also known as lambskin, for their handbags. This type of leather is known for its softness, smooth surface, and luxurious feel. Examples include classic Chanel flap bags and many Saint Laurent styles. Nappa is more delicate than finished calfskin and benefits from gentle, specialised care.

Why gentle products work best for nappa leather

Nappa leather is naturally soft and absorbent, so it requires mild products that condition without overloading the material. Saphir Médaille d'Or Nappa Cream is ideal for this type of leather. It conditions and nourishes with a very light formula that maintains the supple character of lambskin without altering its appearance. Regular use prevents dryness, keeps the surface smooth, and helps the leather retain its signature softness.

Because nappa is more sensitive than treated calfskin, richer products can cause darkening or leave a heavy residue. This is why Nappa Cream is preferred. It is specifically developed for delicate, unfinished or lightly finished leathers.

Cleaning

For routine cleaning you should use Saphir Médaille d'Or Gentle Leather Cleanser. This product removes light dirt, oils, and surface buildup without stripping moisture. Harsh cleaners can mark nappa leather or cause lightening, so a gentle cleanser is essential for preserving the even, velvety look of the material.

Colour corrections

For colour touch ups on nappa leather you should be very careful. Lambskin absorbs pigments easily. Only use a high quality, matching colour cream such as Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier and apply the smallest amount possible. Work it into the area slowly and evenly. Always test on a hidden spot first because the leather can darken if too much product is used.

Chanel lambskin leather handbag

Chanel lambskin / nappa quilted leather purse